Fabric cutting । Methods of Fabric Cutting in Garment Industry

Fabric cutting is one of the preparatory processes of garments manufacturing. It is done to separate different parts of a garment from the lays of fabrics according to predesigned marker with various size ranges placed on the lay. After the cutting operation, the cut pieces are sorted out, numbered and bundled as per different sizes. 



Methods of fabric cutting


Manual
Cutting
– Hand Scissors.

Semi-Automatic Cutting 

– Straight knife of Cutting Machine.


– Round Knife Cutting Machine.
– Band Knife Cutting Machine.
– Die Cutting Machine.
– Notcher Machine.
– Drill Machine.
 Computerized Cutting 

– Knife Cutting Machine.


– Laser Cutting Machine.
– Water Jet Cutting Machine.
– Air jet Cutting Machine.
– Ultrasonic Cutting Machine. 
– Plasma Torch cutting Machine.


Advantages of the straight knife, round knife and
band knife

1. Straight Knife
* A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of knife & rpm of the motor. So, productivity is high.
* Automatic grinding.
* Automatically lubrication.
* Comparatively cheap.
* Can be moved easily by a wheel.
* Suitable for straight-line & curve line.
* Can be cut high curve line than the round knife.
* Fabric can be cut from any
angle.

2. Round Knife
* Suitable for cutting single-ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
* Easy to handle & operate.
* Suitable for small scale cutting.
* Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
* To cut the larger part of the garments.
* With the same rpm its efficiency is 10 times greater
than the straight knife.

3. Band Knife
* Suitable for any types of line.
* Very large productivity for limited product
* Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
* Automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly
* Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which
increases the smooth movement of the fabric.
* Possible to cut 90֩ angle
of the lay.
* The intensity of the accident is low.

Drawbacks of water jets, laser beam cutting

Waterjet cutting
Laser beam cutting
1. Not suitable
for higher depth of lay cutting;
2. Wet
cut edges at the pattern;
3. Water
spot may develop in the fabric;
4. Water needs filtration and de-ionization treatment.
5. Lower plies of multi-layer fabric cutting may not have a sharp line.
6. Needs to control the sound of water jet. 
1. High power consumption
2. Expensive
3. Carelessness in adjusting laser distance and temperature may lead to the burning of some materials.
4. Risk of accidents.

Advantages of computerized cutting
  • Reduce material
    costs.
  • Reduce labour requirements and eliminate the need for skilled cutters. 
  • Accelerate the
    sewing process/productivity.
  • Maximize valuable floor space. 
  • Integrated data sharing.

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