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Fabric Structure | Classification | On-grain | Off-grain

The technique, how the two series of threads (warp and weft) are interlaced at right angles to each other is called structure (/woven fabric structure). The structure is the interlacement of warp and weft yarn or interloping of loops. Woven cloth structure depends on the following factors:
  • The nature /type of yarn used.
  • The count or relative thickness of the yarns used as warp or weft.
  • Thread density of the fabric.
  • The order of interlacing the ends and picks.
  • Modification produced by finishing treatment.
Fabric Structure | Texpedi.com

Classification of woven fabric structure? 

Woven structures may be classified into 2 types as below- 
  1. Simple Structure.
  2. Compound Structure.

Simple structure:

  • Ends and picks intersect one another at right angles.
  • There is only one series of warp and weft.
  • All constituent threads are equally responsible for both the aspect of utility or performance in a fabric.
  • Example: Plain, Twill fabric.

Compound structure:

  • Maybe more than one series of ends or picks.
  • Some of ends or picks may be responsible for the body of the fabric, such as ground yarns; some may be employed for ornamental purposes such as figuring or face yarns.
  • Threads may project out at right angles to the general plane of the fabric.
  • Example: Pile, Towel fabric.
Woven Fabric Structure | Texpedi.com

When a fabric is called on-grain?

A fabric that is on grain has warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to the filling yarns that move straight across the fabric.

When a fabric is called off-grain?

When the angle of interlacement is less or more than 90 degrees then it is called off-grain. It is a fabric fault.

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