The technique, how the two series of threads (warp and weft) are interlaced at right angles to each other is called structure (/woven fabric structure). The structure is the interlacement of warp and weft yarn or interloping of loops. Woven cloth structure depends on the following factors:
The nature /type of yarn used.
The count or relative thickness of the yarns used as warp or weft.
Thread density of the fabric.
The order of interlacing the ends and picks.
Modification produced by finishing treatment.
Classification of woven fabric structure?
Woven structures may be classified into 2 types as below-
Simple Structure.
Compound Structure.
Simple structure:
Ends and picks intersect one another at right angles.
There is only one series of warp and weft.
All constituent threads are equally responsible for both the aspect of utility or performance in a fabric.
Example: Plain, Twill fabric.
Compound structure:
Maybe more than one series of ends or picks.
Some of ends or picks may be responsible for the body of the fabric, such as ground yarns; some may be employed for ornamental purposes such as figuring or face yarns.
Threads may project out at right angles to the general plane of the fabric.
Example: Pile, Towel fabric.
When a fabric is called on-grain?
A fabric that is on grain has warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to the filling yarns that move straight across the fabric.
When a fabric is called off-grain?
When the angle of interlacement is less or more than 90 degrees then it is called off-grain. It is a fabric fault.
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